How to buy a bra that works

While a good bra goes completely unnoticed, a bad bra can come between you and a productive day at work, a great night out, or simply the ability to take the granted descent of a flight of stairs. After all, who has not experienced, in the words of Caitlin Moran, "The sheer, raw pleasure that comes with certain bras" at the end of a long day? By "certain bras", we're talking the ones that look gorgeous (of course) and felt fine when we put them on, but which can not stay the course of a normal working day-and take up all our drawer space. "It is not uncommon for women to swap in between 10 and 20 of them being," concurs Kelly Dunmore, head lingerie stylist at Rigby & Peller-who is famously outfitted the Queen until this year, and is staffed by experts who can not We can not give you the right of first time-and improve the ratio of good-to-bad bras in your wardrobe.

Should I get a bra fitted in-store or can I do it at home?


It's a personal call: in-store means getting up close with a stranger, but you'll be able to try on a range of bras and hopefully leave the store, job done, in under two hours. If you have not seen the time or inclination for this, simply grab a measureing tape and get started online. Remember that buying online is essentially a experimental process-some different styles in a few sizes so you can try on at home and those that are not right. While many brands, including Wacoal, and Marks & Spencer, have easy-to-use web apps that help you narrow down your choices. US brand ThirdLove has taken the online experience forward with a big data approach: its Fit Finder asks a series of questions to determine whether you need to go up or down in the bra band and cup, and recommend a style based on your frame. "We've been doing this over the course of the last three years," says Ra'el Cohen, the company's chief creative officer, "and we have millions of data points from women, so we're able to use that data to make a better recommendation. "

Where to begin


"The first mistake women make is asking, 'what bra size am I?'" Explains Dunmore. Another mistake is going to be about the size of the shape you should be wearing-chances are, your cleavage is not in the same place it was five years ago. In addition to the impact of age and lifestyle, your size will vary based on the minutiae of the bra itself-the cup shape, the type of fabric in the back band, the wire shape, the supplier and even the type of lace used. But though the sizing differ from brand to brand, there are two basic measurements that you are shopping: the band size and cup size. Many of the bra-size calculators online often do the maths for you, but if you want to be sure, the following method is to try

How do you measure your band size?


Stand upright without a bra on and, using a measuring tape, measure around your back and under your bust, where the band of a bra would normally sit. Make sure the tape is going in a steady, even line around your body; If it rides up or down at the back, it will not be accurate. It should feel snug, but not tight Measure in inches: if it's an even number, that is your band size. If it's an odd number, round it up to the nearest inch (so if you measure 34 inches, your band size is 34; if you measure 35 inches, your band size is 36). Many retailers still use a method that involves up to five inches to your measurement-but this is a throwback to the days when bras were made of rigid material. Nowadays, even silk bras are stretchy, so you can find your band size is too small than you thought.

How do you measure your cup size?


For this bit, most retailers recommend you wear your current favourite (ie most comfortable) bra, so that your boobs are held in the place you actually want them to be. Then measure the fullest part of your chest, at nipple level. Next, subtract your band size from this bust measurement. The difference denotes your cup size. 0 = AA; 1 = A; 2 = B; 3 = C; 4 = D; 5 = DD; 6 = F; 7 = FF, 8 = G.

Combine your band size and the cup size, so you have a number followed by a letter. For example: 32C This is your benchmark measurement-but before the start of the month Read on!

How do I know if my bra fits properly?


"Once you're fully adjusted the garment, you really should not feel like you're wearing anything," explains Miryha Fantegrossi, vice president of merchandising and design at Wacoal. Start by doing your bra using the loosest hook (as the bra stretches over time, you'll be able to tighten it and keep the band in place). Then adjust the straps so that they are tight, but not digging into your shoulders If you look at yourself sideways in a mirror, your breasts should be between midway between your shoulders and elbows. And the best way to assess the fit? Sling on your slinkiest T-shirt: "If you can see any lines or bulging skin, you know it's not the right size," Harvey Nichols bra-fitter Emilie Moraes

is firm enough?


"One of the greatest misconceptions about bras right now is that looser is better-so in the quest for comfort, women often up their band size," says Fantegrossi. This comfort can be deceptive

The band provides 80 percent of a bra's support-if it's too loose, it's not going to be your precious cargo in poll position and may also be up at the back, too. Instead, it should fit firmly to the body. "You want to get three fingers up the back of a bra, and two fingers all the way around," explains Dunmore. Cora Harrington, founder and editor-in-chief of The Lingerie Addict, says it should be "horizontal around the body, and there should not be any places where it's pulling up, dipping down, or uneven".

Do not be alarmed if it feels too tight at first. "If you've been wearing something very loose in the back, and then I put you in something that's a lot firmer, your body needs time to adjust how to feel," Dunmore says.

What if the band is riding up?


If the band is riding up on a new purchase, try loosening the straps, or changing to a tighter hook If that does not work, you need to go over one band size altogether. Bear in mind that when you increase band size, it's likely you need go down a cup size (so if your 34C is riding up, try a 36B).

Is a bra too tight if it leaves an imprint on your skin?


Seeing an imprint on your skin when you take your bra off is not abnormal and does not mean it's too tight. That said, if it's something you really want to avoid, which should be distributed on a bigger area. This can also help with reducing any bulging at the back.

The cups: how do you avoid front and / or side spillage?


Your breasts should sit comfortably inside the cups, without any breast tissue spilling out the front or down the side. "If you push on the wire and it's bouncy-it's on your bust tissue," says Dunmore. "Your bust tissue should be inside the cup, and the wire on your rib cage, so it's flat against your body."

Spillage usually happens if you have reduced your back size (often the right thing to do) or if your boobs are not your way to be-example, if your nipples point east west There are two solutions to this problem: increase the cup size or look to a wide wire shape for greater containment.

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